What is a double breasted suit, exactly? Which years of crafting suits for gentlemen with all manner of tastes and builds, I can tell you that it’s more than just a jacket with a few extra buttons. The double-breasted suit is a symbol of elegance, confidence, and sartorial tradition. In this article, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about this classic style, from its origins and structure to when and how you can wear a double breasted suit well.
1. What is a double breasted suit?
A double-breasted suit is a classic style of men’s tailoring where the jacket features a front with two symmetrical columns of buttons and overlapping fabric. Unlike the single-breasted suit, which has a narrow closure and one column of buttons, the double-breasted design is broader across the chest and wraps over itself when fastened, usually with four or six buttons, with one or two functional.
When tailored well, a double-breasted suit can flatter the frame beautifully, especially for those looking to broaden their shoulders or emphasize a V-shaped silhouette. It’s ideal for formal occasions, boardroom settings, or any moment when you want your suit to do the talking.
2. History of the double breasted suit
The double-breasted suit’s origins can be traced back to the early 20th century, though the style draws inspiration from naval uniforms with their overlapping fronts and prominent buttons. By the 1930s, the double-breasted suit had firmly established itself as a symbol of authority and sophistication. Hollywood stars, business magnates, and stylish gentlemen alike embraced the look, favoring the structured silhouette and bold presence it offered.
Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, the double-breasted jacket remained a staple in men’s tailoring. It was especially popular among men who wanted to project strength and stature—thanks to the jacket’s ability to broaden the shoulders and taper the waist. During this golden age, styles often featured padded shoulders, wider lapels, and a longer body length, all contributing to that commanding post-war aesthetic.
However, as fashion shifted in the 1960s and 70s toward more relaxed and minimalist designs, the double-breasted suit fell out of favor. It was considered too formal, even old-fashioned, for the new wave of slim-cut, single-breasted suits.
Yet fashion is cyclical, and in recent years, the double-breasted suit has made a strong and stylish comeback. Today’s versions are sleeker, more tailored, and far more versatile—perfectly suited to both the boardroom and a modern wedding. With soft shoulders, lighter fabrics, and a more forgiving cut, modern double-breasted suits offer all the classic charm without the stiffness.
3. Who should wear a double breasted suit?
Traditionally, double-breasted suits have been favored by men with taller or athletic builds. The overlapping front panels and peak lapels naturally broaden the chest and shoulders, creating a strong, confident silhouette. For men with a slimmer frame, this can help add structure and the illusion of more volume up top. For those who already have broad shoulders, the double-breasted design enhances that strength while subtly tapering the waist, especially when the jacket is cut to follow the lines of the body.
If you’re looking to create a V-shaped profile, this is one of the best styles to consider. The structured cut of a well-fitted double-breasted jacket draws the eye upward and inward, making it ideal for those who want to emphasize posture, presence, and polish.
That said, even shorter or stockier gentlemen can wear double-breasted suits beautifully, provided the proportions are right. A shorter jacket length, slimmer lapels, and a slightly lower button stance can work wonders in balancing the frame. The key, as always, lies in custom tailoring and a precise fit.
4. How to style a double breasted suit
Knowing how to wear a double-breasted suit is an art. The suit itself makes a bold statement, so the way you style it should enhance its strength without overwhelming it. If you’re wondering how to wear a double breasted suit well, allow me to offer some time-tested advice from the tailoring bench.
Start with the shirt. A crisp white dress shirt is the most versatile choice. It brings contrast and brightness that pairs beautifully with navy, grey, or charcoal suits. For a touch of personality, try soft blue or a subtle pinstripe. The collar should be structured enough to hold its shape under the lapels, especially since the jacket frames the chest so closely.
When it comes to ties, keep the proportions in mind. A medium-width tie pairs best with the wider lapels of most double-breasted jackets. Choose classic patterns like regimental stripes, small dots, or textured weaves like grenadine. A silk tie in deep burgundy, navy, or forest green adds richness without drawing attention away from the jacket itself.
Footwear should be equally refined. A pair of well-polished oxford or derby shoes in black or dark brown will anchor the look, while loafers or double monks can give it a more relaxed, European flair, especially if you’re going tieless in a summer-weight suit.
The pocket square is your finishing touch. Folded neatly or puffed with flair, it should complement your tie, not compete with it. A white linen square is a classic, but feel free to add subtle color or pattern to match the mood of the occasion.
As for color combinations, navy and charcoal are the most versatile and easy to style. For weddings or warmer months, a cream or light grey double-breasted suit with a pastel shirt and brown shoes can look incredibly sharp. Just remember: the suit is already a statement piece—let it speak, and keep the rest balanced.
Finally, a tip from the fitting room: always button the anchor button (usually the inner one) and the main outer button, but leave the bottom button undone. It keeps the jacket’s shape and allows it to drape properly as you move.
5. Common mistakes when wearing a double breasted suit
If you’re wondering how not to wear a double breasted suit, here are some key mistakes to avoid, and how to fix them, too.
Wearing the wrong size
Because of the overlapping front, a double-breasted jacket must be tailored precisely to your frame. Too tight, and it pulls across the chest awkwardly. Too loose, and it loses all shape and structure. This style doesn’t forgive poor fit—so make sure your shoulders are clean, the waist is gently nipped, and the length is just right.
Buttoning the jacket incorrectly
A true double-breasted suit has both inner and outer buttons. Most men know to fasten the outer button—but forget or ignore the inner “anchor” button, which keeps the jacket in place. Also, remember to leave the bottom button undone. It’s a classic menswear rule that helps the jacket move naturally and sit properly when standing or walking.
Unbalanced styling
A double-breasted suit already brings strong visual presence, especially with its peak lapels and structured silhouette. Pairing it with loud shirts, overly bold ties or busy pocket squares can create a look that feels heavy and confused. Instead, opt for balance—clean lines, complementary tones, and thoughtful texture.
Unbutton the jacket too often
Lastly, avoid the temptation to treat a double-breasted jacket like a casual blazer. Wearing it unbuttoned too often can make it look sloppy, as it’s designed to be worn closed. While modern tailoring has made it more versatile, its strength still lies in that buttoned-up, confident shape.
6. What’s the difference between single vs double breasted suit
While both styles have their place in a well-rounded wardrobe, the difference between them goes beyond just how many buttons they have. Understanding the contrast in structure, style, and occasion can help you choose the suit that best expresses who you are.
A single breasted suit features a single row of buttons (usually one, two, or three) and a narrow overlap of fabric in the front. It’s the most versatile and widely worn suit style, suitable for everything from job interviews to weddings. Its cleaner, more minimal look makes it easier to dress up or down, depending on the fabric and accessories. If you’re after a timeless, understated appearance, a single breasted suit is always a safe bet.
On the other hand, a double breasted suit has two vertical rows of buttons and a broader front flap that overlaps more significantly. It typically features four to six buttons, with one or two fastening at a time. This style is inherently more formal, structured and bold. It creates a strong silhouette, accentuates the shoulders, and brings an air of confidence that’s hard to ignore.
When comparing a double breasted suit vs single breasted, think of it like this: the single breasted is the everyday classic: versatile, modern and subtle. The double breasted is the confident statement piece: elegant, powerful and a little more refined. It’s not so much a question of which is better, but rather which suits the occasion, the wearer’s build, and the message you want to convey.
In the world of classic menswear, few garments carry the same sense of presence and refinement as the double-breasted suit. Now that you understand what is a double breasted suit, from its structure, history, and how to wear it, you can appreciate why it remains a favorite among well-dressed gentlemen. It’s not just about style; it’s about confidence, posture, and making a statement without saying a word. Whether you’re suiting up for a formal event or adding variety to your business attire, a well-tailored double-breasted suit can elevate your entire look. And remember: the key to pulling it off lies in the fit. As your trusted tailor, I always say, when in doubt, let the suit speak for you.
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